Exterior Paint Bubbling - Ironwood 650

MikeyR

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Having a similar issue after a smoke last night. i took it to 500 F for the first time but only for about an hour. They claim they are going to try and get me a replacement part. a 'backpack replacement'. It is going to be one hell of a future weekend disassembling this thing. I take things apart all of the time and this one looks intimidating both due to the sheer number of screws involved and the weight of some of the parts.

This is after I already had to get the hood replaced because it would pull the the gasket. I feel like I have a lemon.....
Backpack won’t fix the barrel unfortunately...
 

matthewpapa

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Backpack won’t fix the barrel unfortunately...
Thank you for the reply.

So in your experience this is not the right part? The word 'barrel' seems more appropriate considering the paint that is bubbled. What is the backpack then? Is it the one metal part that is not burnt in my pictures?

I am pretty miffed already and I have not had to put up with nearly as much as you all so far. After spending 1.6k USD I expect at least a year or two of honeymoon before problems like this.

Before I used a masterbuilt electric smoker that lasted 6 years until it finally started having electrical issues I have since repaired myself. Also I own a weber genesis that is over 10 years old still going strong despite me rarely covering it up. Should have listened to my friends and just bought a cheap offset smoker...
 

MikeyR

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Thank you for the reply.

So in your experience this is not the right part? The word 'barrel' seems more appropriate considering the paint that is bubbled. What is the backpack then? Is it the one metal part that is not burnt in my pictures?

I am pretty miffed already and I have not had to put up with nearly as much as you all so far. After spending 1.6k USD I expect at least a year or two of honeymoon before problems like this.

Before I used a masterbuilt electric smoker that lasted 6 years until it finally started having electrical issues I have since repaired myself. Also I own a weber genesis that is over 10 years old still going strong despite me rarely covering it up. Should have listened to my friends and just bought a cheap offset smoker...
Backpack is the screwed on vent cover. You can’t replace the barrel on these grills. You need a full replacement unfortunately...
 

RemE

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Having a similar issue after a smoke last night. i took it to 500 F for the first time but only for about an hour. They claim they are going to try and get me a replacement part. a 'backpack replacement'. It is going to be one hell of a future weekend disassembling this thing. I take things apart all of the time and this one looks intimidating both due to the sheer number of screws involved and the weight of some of the parts.

This is after I already had to get the hood replaced because it would pull the the gasket. I feel like I have a lemon.....
Here's some tips,

1- The Gasket, my 850 initially wanted to pull the gasket clip in the exact location as yours. Since you like to take things apart, just look closer at the clip, you can support it in such a way that will let you insert it further until the "barb" portion of the triangle snaps into the slot. I was able to lock mine in. Also, smear a light film of silicone grease around the grill mouth, this lets the gasket slide into position much better when closing so it won't pull on the clips as much.

2- Regarding your paint damage, it's on the barrel part of the grill, not the sheet metal cover on the down draft back box. You would have to replace the grill. You can push for a replacement, or you can look up my posts on insulating the 850 to fix this design flaw. Something you could do in a couple of hours.

OR 3, You can treat this like an offset smoker. I'm seeing that high heat units have hot spots that ruin paint. Since this is really only limited to the rear lower left and right sides on the 850, I would sand off the damaged paint spots, then spray with some grill grate spray oil. Heat the grill and this oil will polymerize and "Blue" the bare metal. Do this regularly and these areas will remain black and rust free. I got this idea from the BBQ Scientist video on the subject.

Lastly, be sure your grill is updated to the latest T2.00.03 config 08.005 as this really stabilized the grill startup temps, no more overshooting temps at ignition.

Good luck, for what it's worth I really love the solid construction of the Timberlines, better than anything I've seen around. But I did feel the need to make my changes to make it better.
 

matthewpapa

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Here's some tips,

1- The Gasket, my 850 initially wanted to pull the gasket clip in the exact location as yours. Since you like to take things apart, just look closer at the clip, you can support it in such a way that will let you insert it further until the "barb" portion of the triangle snaps into the slot. I was able to lock mine in. Also, smear a light film of silicone grease around the grill mouth, this lets the gasket slide into position much better when closing so it won't pull on the clips as much.

2- Regarding your paint damage, it's on the barrel part of the grill, not the sheet metal cover on the down draft back box. You would have to replace the grill. You can push for a replacement, or you can look up my posts on insulating the 850 to fix this design flaw. Something you could do in a couple of hours.

OR 3, You can treat this like an offset smoker. I'm seeing that high heat units have hot spots that ruin paint. Since this is really only limited to the rear lower left and right sides on the 850, I would sand off the damaged paint spots, then spray with some grill grate spray oil. Heat the grill and this oil will polymerize and "Blue" the bare metal. Do this regularly and these areas will remain black and rust free. I got this idea from the BBQ Scientist video on the subject.

Lastly, be sure your grill is updated to the latest T2.00.03 config 08.005 as this really stabilized the grill startup temps, no more overshooting temps at ignition.

Good luck, for what it's worth I really love the solid construction of the Timberlines, better than anything I've seen around. But I did feel the need to make my changes to make it better.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply RemE. After re-reading the entire thread I think I came to a lot of the same conclusions after examining the damage further.

I have since ordered this off of amazon:
This paint is allegedly good to 1200F. I will use fine grit paper to sand the affected area and try to repaint. I will apply a painters tape mask to limit the non OEM paint to just the areas that need it. It should not look too bad when done, just will be missing the gloss finish and texture.

The bluing is a good idea, I had not considered that. Only thing that may hold me back from that is it is super humid here, rust always comes more easily. But certainly would be worth a try if I am unsuccessful in preventing the problem in the future.

Attached below is a picture of what it looks like inside. Definitely does look like something might have been on fire. I was outside with the grill most of the smoke, seems like I would have noticed flames. And none of the other paint is affected. There is very clearly a demarcation between what paint seems out of spec and what was fine. Also the grease tray is pretty much empty and is not scorched so I do not know what would have been burning.
20200927_114321.jpg
 

RemE

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Thanks for the thoughtful reply RemE. After re-reading the entire thread I think I came to a lot of the same conclusions after examining the damage further.

I have since ordered this off of amazon:
This paint is allegedly good to 1200F. I will use fine grit paper to sand the affected area and try to repaint. I will apply a painters tape mask to limit the non OEM paint to just the areas that need it. It should not look too bad when done, just will be missing the gloss finish and texture.

The bluing is a good idea, I had not considered that. Only thing that may hold me back from that is it is super humid here, rust always comes more easily. But certainly would be worth a try if I am unsuccessful in preventing the problem in the future.

Attached below is a picture of what it looks like inside. Definitely does look like something might have been on fire. I was outside with the grill most of the smoke, seems like I would have noticed flames. And none of the other paint is affected. There is very clearly a demarcation between what paint seems out of spec and what was fine. Also the grease tray is pretty much empty and is not scorched so I do not know what would have been burning.
View attachment 2673
That is normal, the firepot literally breathes fire and ash right at those two exhaust ports, more out the side opposite the pellet hopper. The drip pan's rear right and left ears direct exhaust to the ports as well.

I like your idea on the paint test first. My barrel had dulled a bit but not bubbled, and now it's insulated. I am now oiling the sheet metal back panel periodically, so far all good.

BTW, Your link was to flat black, they also have Ultra, Semi-Gloss;
 

matthewpapa

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That is normal, the firepot literally breathes fire and ash right at those two exhaust ports, more out the side opposite the pellet hopper. The drip pan's rear right and left ears direct exhaust to the ports as well.

I like your idea on the paint test first. My barrel had dulled a bit but not bubbled, and now it's insulated. I am now oiling the sheet metal back panel periodically, so far all good.

BTW, Your link was to flat black, they also have Ultra, Semi-Gloss;
Good find, I had already had shipped unfortunately. Guess if it ever bothers me I can paint over it

I used a dremel with a orbital sander to clean up the area and then applied 3 coats of paint to the area. I am actually very pleased with the results, it is not obvious at all. Especially from afar.
I did 2 peking ducks last night and the done pic is after that, it held up well. I have yet to take it to 500 F again, will report back issues (if any)
I should get the backpack replacement any day now, though that piece is hardly damaged
 

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I've had my 650 about 6 months. Most of my cooking is at 500 degrees. There was bubbling and peeling in a few places during that first month of cooking but it never spread and has been stable ever since. At some point I may paint to prevent rust in the worst spots in the back near the pellet box. IMG_0783.jpgIMG_0784.jpgIMG_0785.jpg
 

RemE

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Just spray cooking oil on it before cooking, it will protect those hot spots. Apparently used a lot with stick burner folks.

Seems a quick and easy way to avoid rust.
 

Blip

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Just spray cooking oil on it before cooking, it will protect those hot spots. Apparently used a lot with stick burner folks.

Seems a quick and easy way to avoid rust.
I bet duck fat would work even better!
 

Tim

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Well the replacement arrive about a month ago. No problems so far. Took to 500 2 times paint still ok. This grill worked correctly from the seasoning and on. Hope others get satisfaction. Keep on them.
 

matthewpapa

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I bet duck fat would work even better!
Definitely would do more than the original paint that is for sure.

Reporting back after a few smokes. The spray paint I bought off of Amazon has worked great. Since my fix-up there has been more bubbling in the original factory paint while the retrofit paint is completely unfazed. I ordered the gloss paint to see how it will work, should be more aesthetically pleasing. May just sand off all of the original paint near the hot spots and replace it with this stuff to get it over with since it seems to work so much better.

Still pretty disappointed I am having these issues with such an new grill but at least there seems to be a permanent fix rather than yelling at customer support for a living. If you are new and want to avoid bubbling I suggest never going over 450F.
 

John S.

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That is normal, the firepot literally breathes fire and ash right at those two exhaust ports, more out the side opposite the pellet hopper. The drip pan's rear right and left ears direct exhaust to the ports as well.

I like your idea on the paint test first. My barrel had dulled a bit but not bubbled, and now it's insulated. I am now oiling the sheet metal back panel periodically, so far all good.

BTW, Your link was to flat black, they also have Ultra, Semi-Gloss;
You may also check out 2000 dregree automotive engine paint... ‘
I would use your angle grinder with a wire brush to prep the grill then just repaint... ( there is also a high temp primer).. WhIle you should not have to do it, especially for the price that we are paying, but it may just be faster and easier.....
 
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GTDjr

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Before I start, let me emphasize that as nearly as I can tell, Traeger Grills are great at what they are designed to do. My gripe is that Traeger has over sold what they are designed to do.

If this has been said before, I apologize. My take is that Traeger Grills are unsurpassed at what they are designed to do, that is smoking stuff. The problem is that Traeger has sold their product as a smoker and as a particular Srly hot oven. The truth of the matter is that these machines excel at smoking, but are not designed to cook stuff at high temperatures. I have not tried the higher temperature recipes provided by Traeger or anyone else on a Traeger smoker When I do try to cook stuff at 400 degrees or higher I will use my old Weber charcoal grill, my old Weber gas grill, or my kitchen over.

The long and short of it is that Traeger Grills (at least my Ironwood 650) does an excellent job of smoking things. If you want to grill something, use something else.
 

RemE

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I do think that Traeger had a few bad runs with inferior paint. That said, they do hit the high temps well. If you accept that your paint may suffer in the hot spots, just like a stick burner, then all is well. Just some touch up maintenance here and there.
 

Greg G

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I received what I hope to be my last replacement 650, here is a post in another thread showing what modifications I made to help minimize the risk of paint issues.

 
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